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Pool chlorine levels chart: what your readings mean

You tested your water. Now you're staring at a number and wondering: is that good? Here's a straightforward chart covering every chlorine-related reading and what to do about it.

Free chlorine (FC) levels

Free chlorine is the active sanitizer in your pool — the chlorine that's available to kill bacteria and algae. This is the most important number on your test.

FC Level (ppm)StatusAction
0No sanitizerAdd chlorine immediately. Your pool has no protection against bacteria or algae
0.1 – 0.9Dangerously lowAdd chlorine now. Water is not safe for swimming
1.0 – 1.9LowAcceptable short-term, but raise to 2+ ppm soon
2.0 – 4.0IdealNo action needed. This is your target range
4.1 – 7.9HighLet it drop naturally. Avoid swimming above 5 ppm
8.0+Too highDo not swim. Wait for FC to drop below 5 ppm before using the pool

CYA changes everything

The 2–4 ppm range assumes low or no cyanuric acid (CYA). If you use stabilized chlorine or have CYA in your water, your FC target should be higher. A common guideline is to keep FC at about 7.5% of your CYA level. So at CYA 50, aim for FC of 3–4 ppm. At CYA 80, aim for 6+ ppm.

Combined chlorine (CC) levels

Combined chlorine is chlorine that's already reacted with contaminants — it's spent and no longer sanitizing. You calculate it by subtracting FC from TC.

Combined Chlorine = Total Chlorine − Free Chlorine
CC Level (ppm)StatusAction
0 – 0.2ExcellentNo action needed
0.2 – 0.5NormalAcceptable. Monitor on next test
0.5 – 1.0ElevatedConsider shocking soon if this persists
1.0+HighShock the pool. Chloramines are building up

High combined chlorine is what causes "that pool smell." It also irritates eyes and skin. If CC stays above 0.5 ppm across multiple tests, it's time to shock.

Total chlorine (TC) levels

Total chlorine is simply FC + CC. On its own, TC doesn't tell you much — what matters is how close it is to your free chlorine reading.

ScenarioWhat It MeansAction
TC equals FCNo combined chlorine. All your chlorine is activeNothing — this is perfect
TC slightly above FCSmall amount of CC. Normal after heavy useMonitor. Shock if it persists
TC much higher than FCHigh CC. Chloramines are building upShock immediately

When to test chlorine

Factors that affect chlorine levels

Chlorine doesn't stay at a fixed level — several things consume or degrade it:

The CYA/chlorine relationship

CYA protects chlorine from sunlight, but it also binds to chlorine and slows it down. The higher your CYA, the more FC you need to maintain effective sanitization. This is why tracking both numbers together matters — a "good" FC reading can actually be too low if your CYA is high.

Quick reference: ideal ranges

ReadingIdeal RangeTest Frequency
Free Chlorine (FC)2 – 4 ppm (adjust for CYA)2–3x per week
Combined Chlorine (CC)Below 0.5 ppmEvery test (calculated from FC and TC)
Total Chlorine (TC)Should be close to FC2–3x per week
Cyanuric Acid (CYA)30 – 50 ppmMonthly

Track your chlorine levels over time

PoolChem Tracker logs FC, TC, and CC together, calculates dynamic FC targets based on your CYA level, and shows you trends so you can spot problems before they start.

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